As monsoon rains swept Mandalay’s outskirts this week, thousands gathered for the Taungbyone Festival — a riot of colour, trance and devotion that has endured despite Myanmar’s civil war.
The annual celebration centres on “spirit consorts”, flamboyant mediums who channel the country’s pantheon of Nats, ancient ghosts revered for their power to protect or punish. Dressed in gold jewellery and heavy make-up, they danced, drank and spiralled into trances as crowds cheered, showered them with roses and tucked cash into their costumes.
For many, the rituals are more than spectacle. “When they come to me, I feel at peace,” said Shwe Moe Thae Kyaw Kyaw, a 35‑year‑old medium. “Things work very smoothly.”
Pride amid conflict
The festival has long been a safe space for Myanmar’s LGBTQ community, with most mediums identifying as transgender women or other marginalised identities. In a country where homosexuality remains criminalised, Taungbyone is often seen as an unofficial Pride celebration.
Yet the backdrop is grim. Since the military coup of 2021, more than 100,000 people have died in fighting between junta forces, ethnic minority armies and pro‑democracy guerrillas, according to conflict monitors. Mandalay itself was devastated by a major earthquake in 2025, compounding the trauma.
Despite this, the festival returned in full force this year, watched closely by pro‑government militias who still label the region a “black zone”. Vendors sold woven headdresses, devotees prayed for relief, and spirits were invoked to heal wounds both personal and national.
Ancient ghosts, modern hopes
The Nats are said to influence everything from car sales to the course of war. Some represent kings or warriors, others guard homes or embody natural forces. At Taungbyone, two brother spirits executed centuries ago are central to the rites, alongside Min Kyawzwa, patron of drunkards and gamblers, honoured with bottles of alcohol.
Medium Win Hlaing, 65, explained their enduring appeal: “Nats are like medicines, they each have their own power. I connect people and Nats according to their needs.”
For devotees, the festival offers a rare reprieve from conflict. “I lost my way, that’s why I came here — to find a way back,” said one attendee, speaking anonymously.
In a nation fractured by war, Taungbyone remains a place where belief, identity and resilience converge — proof that even amid turmoil, Myanmar’s spirits still command devotion.
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